My attempt to leave Cusco...

failed so far! Tula and Ariana took me to the bus station, so cute! Once there we heard that my bus wasn´t leaving and that I was now on the 6pm bus. I guess it´s better because now I arrive in Nasca at 8am instead of 4am. I´m hoping the hostal I read about is actually fun and maybe I´ll meet some travelers to fly over the lines with! Above is a picture of one of the lines that I will hopefully see. Historians and archaeologists still do not know how they got there, but maybe I´ll learn some good theories in the next couple days. No plans for Halloween although it seems like they are pretty into it, at least for tourists. Maybe Nasca will have some cray cray party...my costume will no doubt be conspicuous tourist...

And now for something completely different

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfCE4PRR2ck

Los campesinos enojados

Comfy back in my Cusco homestay once again, yet trying to recover from a week of stomach sickness, sinus sickness and striking. It´s been almost two months since I left the great state of California and while this journey is definitely beautiful and full of interesting places and people I am officially missing home and creature comforts. I´m guessing that once I rest for a couple days I´ll be ready to set out again and finish up my adventure.
Adventure it is down here especially two days ago as I made my way from Puno (far south near Lake Titicaca) back to Cusco. We were told that buses were allowed to pass through the roadblocks as long as we went through in the middle of the night. So, we left Puno at 9pm on Friday only to be stopped around 2am. We lined up with all the other buses and trucks to wait for the blockades to open up. Nine hours later and we had not moved more than 500 ft. A dutch boy looked me in the face and said, "You want to walk, don´t you?" And I did. I couldn´t imagine sitting on that bus for two or three days like some of the others in the lineup had already done. Entonces, six of us took our bags, put on our sunscreen and began the hike to Cusco. It was over 60 miles away, mind you.
All told, we probably walked about 10 or 12 miles with our packs. We passed through countless villages where everyone told us we were crazy to try to get to Cusco, we should turn around and go back where we came from, and occasionally we got some support. The people are striking because the Peruvian government wants to build a dam that would cut off the water supply to four semi large communities south of Cusco. Understandably so, the people are extremely upset. There are stones all over the road and I have never seen that many Peruvians looking so angry. They are normally so happy and welcoming, it was quite frightening to say the least. Luckily I fell in with a group of awesome people who were committed to getting back to Cusco and finally, eight hours later, we made it! It took walking, talking, busing, taxi-ing and a fair amount of patience, but once I arrived at my host family´s house it was all I could do to throw down my bags and hug Pablo as he rushed out of the house to make sure we were alright. It is so comforting to have a house and family to "come home" to in another country. But don´t worry, I will always come back to California.

The return of Rambo, back room visas and a little affair with Betty.

Rambo returned in full force as Niamh and I set out for our first dinner in Arequipa. He almost ran into my face as we entered the falafel shop and again! asked about the Chaco´s. These are Chaco´s by the way, if you´re not aware.

I don´t think the blog does Rambo justice, but his mannerisms are unforgettable. Arequipa was also unforgettable. Beautiful buildings, delicious food and the beginning of the biggest adventure yet. About a week ago, Niamh and I met Betty: a 1977 white VW van. She´s being driven from New York City to Rio by two Australians in a quest to make a sweet documentary and have adventures along the way. http://nyc2rio.com/ Adventures we had. We joined them from Arequipa to La Paz in what was planned as a one day, one long day, but one day drive. It took two. In second gear about 80% of the time. It included a shower for Harley in gas, or petrol as they would call it, a tow truck through La Paz on Saturday night, delicious pizza in Puno, push starting Betty every time we had to stop and great music. Niamh and I were laid back and ready to rumble and I can honestly say that it was one of the best things I´ve done since being here. The guys are infinitely patient and we had a once in a lifetime experience. Including, but not limited to, my back room visa into Bolivia. You see, Americans are currently the only ones who have to pay to get into Bolivia and I ¨lost¨my yellow fever shot paper so the officer had to accompany me to a private office where I was finally issued my visa. Niamh came with, bless her!! It cost a little more, but the unique experience of Bolivia was worth it. Besides the fact that I felt good going into a country that might not always be advised mostly because we were in a good group and had our heads on our shoulders. It´s pretty amazing the difference it makes when you travel through South America with guys versus me alone, or a group of women. I didn´t even always feel safer, it was just a nice break to be ignored as you walked down the street. I also think it was prudent of us to enter Bolivia with three guys seeing as there have been problems...everything went fine for us and back in Peru and I am SO glad I had that experience.

ps I went to Machupicchu

Soooo one day I decided that since I was in Peru, I might as well get my act together and figure how I was going to see this wonder of the world that calls itself, Machupicchu. One thing led to another and I had signed up for aforementioned Salkantay trek. Four days of hiking, one day of Machupicching.

To the left is the valley we hiked through on my birthday. Pretty impressive even though it was covered in mist. Lord of the Rings style...not really my favorite movie, but in real life, it´s amazing. We had a nice group of ten with a really sweet guide who did his best to keep us happy throughout the rainy weather we endured. Suffice to say, we were pretty hardcore...despite the fact that our things and food are carried by horses. (The altitude is killer, trust me.)

Besides all the hype you hear about Machupicchu I was sadly ready to be disappointed by the crowds, the weather, something. Fortunately, this was definitely not the case. After about a thousand steps at four in the morning, the fab five arrived to be the first in line at Machupicchu on October 9th, 2008. Entering the site at 6am with mist rising from all sides almost took my breath away and definitely gave me some goosebumps. There´s nothing like seeing a place live that you´ve only ever experienced in pictures or through other´s descriptions. There´s also llamas there from a beer commercial that they never bothered to remove. Pretty crazy.

The fab five also climbed Waynapiccu even after four days of trekking and we were quite proud. The steps are suuuuper steep and the sun was blazing on the way down. Nothing compares to the views from the top and of course, just our luck! We saw a condor. By the end of Wayna my feet were swollen, I had only eaten bananas and Oreos all day AND! we´d been up since three in the morning. It was time to take the comfy bus down the hill and relax while waiting for the swanky train back to Cusco. The rain began just as we got on the bus, how perfect! There are many silly stories from the trek but the best is Rambo. A fellow trekker who accosted us outside of Aguas Calientes asking for the nearest Chaco´s sandals retailer. SO RANDOM. (Trust me, they don´t sell them in very many countries, I´ve looked.) He was sweating in the pouring rain after running full speed down the train tracks in teva-esque sandals held together by a plastic bag. No words my friends, no words. But he will return.

Greetings from the Euro of Peru

I landed in Arequipa Monday night after a relatively uneventful but gorgeous bus ride from Puno. The full moon was SO bright that we could see all the scenery we would normally miss in the dark. Glaciers, mountains, lakes, you name it. A drive of more than one hour through Peru usually results in at least four different geographical zones, if you will.

The weekend in Puno visiting Lake Titicaca was thoroughly enjoyed by all. Alissa, Niamh and I set out from Cusco late Friday night in what was possibly the most uncomfortable night bus ever. We all thought the others were sleeping the whole ride when in actuality no one slept more than an hour! Luckily it was warm and I didn´t have the creeper man moving ever so slowly over the arm rest onto my lap. Niamh is quite the trooper. By the way, I met her in Lima at the hostel and we´ve been on relatively the same travel schedule ever since! It´s great.

I met Alissa in my host family in Cusco and while we´re both into education and chocolate, things couldn´t be better! In any case, the three of us had a fabulously funny time visiting touristy yet awesome floating islands and spending the night with a host family on the island of Amantani where the doors were half my height. We stayed with the president of the community, it was rad. His wife dressed us in traditional clothes and the little girls in us couldn´t help but crack up as our circulation was being cut off by the beautiful belts they wear. We felt guilty for laughing given the impression it may have given, but hopefully no serious harm was done. The views were some of the best I have ever seen and the tranquility of the island was perfect after a few weeks in the bustling city of Cusco. Not to mention that we were at 4300 meters when the sun set on Sunday night and! that the lake is the highest navigable lake in the world. Titi for Peru and caca for Bolivia. It was also amazing to see the massive amount of lightning far off in the distant jungle while we enjoyed a completely clear beautiful night.

Quite the opposite is the gorgeous city in which I am now residing. The Plaza de Armas (main square) is breath taking. Palm trees, fountains, a block long cathedral, and plenty of old men doing sketchy business deals with typewriters on the green benches. I kid you not. The wealth that was supposedly brought over after WWII by German immigrants is quite apparent. The people have a different air about them in this city and Niamh and I keep noticing how we feel more like we´ve landed in Spain than Peru. It´s super interesting that such a contrast can exist within one country.

My hair is drying after an excellent afternoon of rafting down the Chiri river with adorable Spanish kids and a pretty hot Brasilian guide. My arms are a little sore, but it´s definitely a sport I would do again. You don´t even mind the freezing water splashing everywhere because the rush is so good. Plans for the evening hopefully include falafel and the debate...we´ll see what happens after that party.

Cusco con estilo

Just a few nights ago I was relaxing, playing Scrabble and drinking hot chocolate in a seemingly chill barish location in San Blas in Cusco when all of a sudden a very animated woman and a man with a video camera entered the premises. They proceded to ask me and the girls from my home stay if we spoke Spanish and would like to be interviewed! for a local tv show, Cusco con estilo (Cusco with style). A hilarious interview later we are local celebs! Not really, but she spoke the fastest Spanish I have ever heard and I had a little difficulty conjugating my verbs under pressure. Needless to say, playing Scrabble was a welcome reminder of home and the hot chocolate in this town is almost as good as France.

I have also been having an interesting volunteering experience for a few days this week. I realized that I wanted to volunteer for at least some of the time that I am in Cusco, so I spoke with the director of my language school re different projects that he knew. It took asking literally 20 taxis, then going to this womans house in downtown Cusco, then another taxi out to a remote neighborhood before I arrived at the project. Turns out it is run by Christian missionaries who are actually quite lovely BUT just my luck that a visiting member of the church was there that day and I dont think my responses to his questions regarding my religion were exactly what he expected. He did leave me with this piece of wisdom. We cant get to heaven by doing good deeds alone...
The thing is, I agree with their mission of helping those less fortunate, giving back to the community when you have more than others, but for me that is currently the limit of my intentions for volunteering. Clearly, for them, not so much. Luckily, the director is super upbeat, seems to be organized and hasnt as of yet interogated me regarding my religion. For me, its all about the kids and following a disappointing experience with other volunteers I am actually glad that this is such a short term thing. It was pretty clear to me yesterday that the other volunteers had themselves as a priority before the children when they left me with one kid eight year old to go home and change before their dinner plans. Granted, the child lives in the house where we run the program but we did not know if anyone was there to look after him after we left! Turns out his brother was home, although asleep, and when I left I walked the entire fifteen minutes about 20 yards behind my fellow volunteers without so much as a token of acknowledgement that was I there.

In more news, I am leaving early Sunday morning for a five day trek to Machupicchu!! There are several alternative treks now that the Inca trail is so overloaded with hikers and this one passes over the mountain Salkantay (about 15,000 ft). I will be hiking over the peak on my birthday which seems like an awesome and memorable way to spend that day this year. I also have plans to head south to Lake Titicaca with a friend from Ireland. Things are working out!!