If you saw my tan...

you might understand why the posts have been so infrequent, or non existent to tell the truth. Honestly, the tan isn't the most amazing thing in the world, but I have been spending quite a few of the last few weeks at the beach or around a pool and it was heaven. Worked my way north from Lima stopping in Trujillo and then moved out to Huanchaco which should have been a perfect beach holiday. Sadly, it was quite overcast, but we made the best of it playing beach volleyball and eating grilled fish. Also, lots of cards and cuba libres on the balcony of our hotel.

After Huanchaco we took one of the worst bus trips ever wherein I thought we had been hijacked since the road was so bumpy, but no! Thank god.
Mancora was the final destination of my journey and it was paradise. Perfect weather, a beautiful new hostel, delicious food, creative cocktails. Besides the little cold I contracted the past few days it was almost the best vacay ever. I leave to come home tomorrow full of stories and photos and very very excited to see all of you who will be there to greet me.

Shocked and amazed

I spent Tuesday evening in a bar filled with people from around the world anticipating and celebrating Obama´s win. Everyone went crazy! It´s pretty interesting to see how this deciscion that Americans have made has such an enormous effect on the entire world. I got interviewed by a Peruvian news crew in Spanish and also by an Australian reporter. All I could really say was how shocked and excited I was and that being abroad during the election is an experience I wouldn´t want to trade for the world, but I can´t wait to get home and see how things have changed...have they? I can´t wait to talk to all of you and hear thoughts, ideas and opinions.
My trip is quickly finishing up as I only have about two weeks left. I am currently in Trujillo, about eight hours by bus north of Lima and my travel companions currently consist of two Canadians and one Danish...good guys, we´re having fun. We´re on our way to the beach at Mancora which is supposed to be super beautiful. While my time in the mountains was beautiful, I am really looking forward to the beach. Can´t wait to see you all!

My attempt to leave Cusco...

failed so far! Tula and Ariana took me to the bus station, so cute! Once there we heard that my bus wasn´t leaving and that I was now on the 6pm bus. I guess it´s better because now I arrive in Nasca at 8am instead of 4am. I´m hoping the hostal I read about is actually fun and maybe I´ll meet some travelers to fly over the lines with! Above is a picture of one of the lines that I will hopefully see. Historians and archaeologists still do not know how they got there, but maybe I´ll learn some good theories in the next couple days. No plans for Halloween although it seems like they are pretty into it, at least for tourists. Maybe Nasca will have some cray cray party...my costume will no doubt be conspicuous tourist...

And now for something completely different

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfCE4PRR2ck

Los campesinos enojados

Comfy back in my Cusco homestay once again, yet trying to recover from a week of stomach sickness, sinus sickness and striking. It´s been almost two months since I left the great state of California and while this journey is definitely beautiful and full of interesting places and people I am officially missing home and creature comforts. I´m guessing that once I rest for a couple days I´ll be ready to set out again and finish up my adventure.
Adventure it is down here especially two days ago as I made my way from Puno (far south near Lake Titicaca) back to Cusco. We were told that buses were allowed to pass through the roadblocks as long as we went through in the middle of the night. So, we left Puno at 9pm on Friday only to be stopped around 2am. We lined up with all the other buses and trucks to wait for the blockades to open up. Nine hours later and we had not moved more than 500 ft. A dutch boy looked me in the face and said, "You want to walk, don´t you?" And I did. I couldn´t imagine sitting on that bus for two or three days like some of the others in the lineup had already done. Entonces, six of us took our bags, put on our sunscreen and began the hike to Cusco. It was over 60 miles away, mind you.
All told, we probably walked about 10 or 12 miles with our packs. We passed through countless villages where everyone told us we were crazy to try to get to Cusco, we should turn around and go back where we came from, and occasionally we got some support. The people are striking because the Peruvian government wants to build a dam that would cut off the water supply to four semi large communities south of Cusco. Understandably so, the people are extremely upset. There are stones all over the road and I have never seen that many Peruvians looking so angry. They are normally so happy and welcoming, it was quite frightening to say the least. Luckily I fell in with a group of awesome people who were committed to getting back to Cusco and finally, eight hours later, we made it! It took walking, talking, busing, taxi-ing and a fair amount of patience, but once I arrived at my host family´s house it was all I could do to throw down my bags and hug Pablo as he rushed out of the house to make sure we were alright. It is so comforting to have a house and family to "come home" to in another country. But don´t worry, I will always come back to California.

The return of Rambo, back room visas and a little affair with Betty.

Rambo returned in full force as Niamh and I set out for our first dinner in Arequipa. He almost ran into my face as we entered the falafel shop and again! asked about the Chaco´s. These are Chaco´s by the way, if you´re not aware.

I don´t think the blog does Rambo justice, but his mannerisms are unforgettable. Arequipa was also unforgettable. Beautiful buildings, delicious food and the beginning of the biggest adventure yet. About a week ago, Niamh and I met Betty: a 1977 white VW van. She´s being driven from New York City to Rio by two Australians in a quest to make a sweet documentary and have adventures along the way. http://nyc2rio.com/ Adventures we had. We joined them from Arequipa to La Paz in what was planned as a one day, one long day, but one day drive. It took two. In second gear about 80% of the time. It included a shower for Harley in gas, or petrol as they would call it, a tow truck through La Paz on Saturday night, delicious pizza in Puno, push starting Betty every time we had to stop and great music. Niamh and I were laid back and ready to rumble and I can honestly say that it was one of the best things I´ve done since being here. The guys are infinitely patient and we had a once in a lifetime experience. Including, but not limited to, my back room visa into Bolivia. You see, Americans are currently the only ones who have to pay to get into Bolivia and I ¨lost¨my yellow fever shot paper so the officer had to accompany me to a private office where I was finally issued my visa. Niamh came with, bless her!! It cost a little more, but the unique experience of Bolivia was worth it. Besides the fact that I felt good going into a country that might not always be advised mostly because we were in a good group and had our heads on our shoulders. It´s pretty amazing the difference it makes when you travel through South America with guys versus me alone, or a group of women. I didn´t even always feel safer, it was just a nice break to be ignored as you walked down the street. I also think it was prudent of us to enter Bolivia with three guys seeing as there have been problems...everything went fine for us and back in Peru and I am SO glad I had that experience.

ps I went to Machupicchu

Soooo one day I decided that since I was in Peru, I might as well get my act together and figure how I was going to see this wonder of the world that calls itself, Machupicchu. One thing led to another and I had signed up for aforementioned Salkantay trek. Four days of hiking, one day of Machupicching.

To the left is the valley we hiked through on my birthday. Pretty impressive even though it was covered in mist. Lord of the Rings style...not really my favorite movie, but in real life, it´s amazing. We had a nice group of ten with a really sweet guide who did his best to keep us happy throughout the rainy weather we endured. Suffice to say, we were pretty hardcore...despite the fact that our things and food are carried by horses. (The altitude is killer, trust me.)

Besides all the hype you hear about Machupicchu I was sadly ready to be disappointed by the crowds, the weather, something. Fortunately, this was definitely not the case. After about a thousand steps at four in the morning, the fab five arrived to be the first in line at Machupicchu on October 9th, 2008. Entering the site at 6am with mist rising from all sides almost took my breath away and definitely gave me some goosebumps. There´s nothing like seeing a place live that you´ve only ever experienced in pictures or through other´s descriptions. There´s also llamas there from a beer commercial that they never bothered to remove. Pretty crazy.

The fab five also climbed Waynapiccu even after four days of trekking and we were quite proud. The steps are suuuuper steep and the sun was blazing on the way down. Nothing compares to the views from the top and of course, just our luck! We saw a condor. By the end of Wayna my feet were swollen, I had only eaten bananas and Oreos all day AND! we´d been up since three in the morning. It was time to take the comfy bus down the hill and relax while waiting for the swanky train back to Cusco. The rain began just as we got on the bus, how perfect! There are many silly stories from the trek but the best is Rambo. A fellow trekker who accosted us outside of Aguas Calientes asking for the nearest Chaco´s sandals retailer. SO RANDOM. (Trust me, they don´t sell them in very many countries, I´ve looked.) He was sweating in the pouring rain after running full speed down the train tracks in teva-esque sandals held together by a plastic bag. No words my friends, no words. But he will return.